By Emily Smith | Contributing Writer
From outside, the smells over whelmed the clean, crisp air, a hint of salt, and a whiff of sweetness making my mouth water before even entering The White Horse Tavern, America’s oldest tap house dating back over 300 years. The scents took me for a ride around the modest courtyard and in through the black wooden door. The ambiance of this small yet delightful restaurant, took me back hundreds of years as if I could almost hear the hooves of a horse striding along the street.
Upon entering my guest and I were immediately greeted by a smiling maître d’ who ushered us to a small yet amply sized table. As luck would have it this corner table gave me a perfect view of the magical movements that were about to occur. The dining room had a dark glow, decorated in antique furniture, which made me feel as though I was in the dining room of a wealthy historical figure. The servers bustled around the dining room with swift calculated movements, leaving my eyes transfixed by the beauty of the whole scene, as my mouth watered over the powerful aroma coming from the kitchen. No doubt my out of town companion was as impressed by the scene as I was.
Within minutes of sitting down my server made sure that my water glass was full and a menu was on the table. He then greeted me politely, and explained the delectable available options for Restaurant Week. It did not take me long to decide on which of these meals I was going to have, although every option sounded equally exquisite. As I gave my order to the waiter the smiling couple next to me leaned over with their approval raving about the dishes I had decided upon.
While waiting for my first of three courses a small basket of bread was brought over to my table. Moments after being placed in front of me I dug in. The basket holding the bread was wars as a result of the heat radiating off of the freshly baked loaf. I tore off apiece, spread on some butter, and indulged. In all honesty I could not tell you that was better, the bread or the salty/ sweet combination of the churned butter. With little or no regrets, I ate the rest of the loaf, smearing more and more butter onto each and every piece.
If I wasn’t satisfied already, my first course arrived. A large white china plate was placed before me, in the center of the plate was a combination of lush shallots, peppery black garlic, with a mountain of Rhode Island mushroom placed on top of a buttered baguette. The bread gave you a perfect crunch amongst the chewy succulent mushrooms; the combination between the shallots and the garlic contributed a perfect amount of zing to this dish, causing me not be able to put my fork down until the plate was empty.
As the server returned to collect my plate, with knowing eyes he asked, “How was it?” All I could do was smile, because that small dish left me with utter happiness.
Shortly after my first dish was removed a second was placed before me. As I was now starting to expect it matched the white china from the prior dish. It served as a beautiful backdrop for the braised short rib Ragu. Freshly shaved parmesan cheese covered the top of the highly pleasant smelling dish that was before me. Torn between letting the cheese melt a little more on top the dish and eating, my curiosity and appetite got the better of me and I dove in.
The first thing I noticed about the dish was how the tender short rib melted in my mouth, as if chewing was not even necessary. The second thing was that the homemade rigatoni was cooked perfectly Al Dente. With each bite I experienced a new flavor, crunchy sweet carrots, soft peppery meat, and melting nutty parmesan. Once every noodle was gone, I was left with a small amount of ragu that within no time was immediately forked into my mouth leaving the plate scattered with barely any evidence that there was once a full dish before me.
This time when the server came to collect my dish, I could not contain my feelings, I told him it was important he passed on the message to the chef that this dish was simply perfect.
Before my third and final course was place on the table, I could smell it from across the room. The sweet aroma of the caramelized crème brulee filled the air. This simple yet divine dish was decorated with a medley of fruits. My spoon cracked the thin layer of caramel on top and delivered the rich custard into my mouth; the contrast between the caramel and the richness of the creamy custard blended perfectly together, added extra flavor with the sweet berries.
Another empty dish, and another raving review, the server courteously presented my check. The bill of fare equaling less than $50 including tip was worth every penny. The service was attentive and the meal was exquisite, needless to say I will be a returning costumer. The White Horse Tavern has been opened for over 300 years, and after dining there it is very clear why. The White Horse Tavern serves lunch and dinner as well as Sunday brunch. Their menu ranges from $7 to $22 for dinner appetizers and $24 to $32 for main courses, including steak, chicken, and a variety of fish. Hours of operation are Monday through Thursday 11:30 am to 9:00 pm, Friday and Saturday 11:30 am to 10:00 pm, and Sunday 11:00 am to 9:00 pm, and reservations are highly suggested. The White Horse Tavern offers limited parking around back but if you plan to dine there during off-season there is plenty of parking around the Broadway area.
Located on 26 Marlborough Street in Newport.
