Sardella’s

By: Briana Scafidi
Posted In: The Island Dish

The wood-beamed walls, small dim lamps and cozy fireplace topped with driftwood and other knickknacks and surrounded by paintings of sailboats and green mountain tops create the ambience of a rustic log cabin or cozy cottage. Surrounded by rows of dully colored books by Kipling and Twain, guests are invited to get as comfortable as possible at small wooden tables to enjoy soft jazz music and conversation. The small room is packed with middle-aged couples in casual evening clothes- men in collared shirts and women in long skirts with flowers in their hair- leaning into each other to speak quietly and romantically, and groups of older men and women, laughing loudly and sharing stories about grandchildren. An electric piano and bass rest against a wall, next to a sign presenting the evening’s performer, Dick Lupino. His equipment is being plugged in and prepared.

Newport’s Sardella’s Italian Restaurant, tucked between the boutiques of Memorial Boulevard West, is the perfect break from an evening of strolling and shopping, and with the option of dining on an outdoor patio, the restaurant is ideal for summer dinners. Newport’s oldest full-service Italian Restaurant, Sardella’s features not only one dining room and patio, but a bar and five larger function rooms, each with an elegant yet at-home feel. The restaurant offers extensive special function menus and a wine list just as long.

Most guests, unless fluent in Italian, will probably struggle with the menu until they read the explanations of dishes like Gemilini e Pollo al Fungi (Twisted pasta, grilled chicken, portabella mushrooms in a gorgonzola cream sauce) and Fra Diavolo del Mare (Shrimp, scallops, and onions in spicy plum tomato sauce). The army of wait staff, clad in black and quiet but attentive, are available to help with further questions regarding the selection. I settled on Penne Primavera, a dish as brightly colored and lightly smooth as my favorite sundress on a breezy summer day. The soft yellow tubes were served on a shining white dish, sprinkled with a confetti of vibrant vegetables as unique and bright as the inside of a kaleidoscope. Red peppers, carrots, cucumber, zucchini and broccoli, and their warm golden blanket, smooth and much thinner than any tomato sauce, gave the dish a comfortable lemony taste as warm as sunshine, with just a hint of every vegetable.

I was so content with my dish that it must have inspired me to put my fork down to daydream that I was basking in the summer sun or lying in the warm grass, because before I realized I hadn’t cleaned my plate an eager dishwasher had appeared by my side, outstretching his hand and asking if I was finished. Surprised and a bit confused, I said yes and immediately regretted it.

My roommate had opted for and finished the Pollo alla Parmigiana (chicken parmesan), an equally appetizing meal served over al dente ziti which stuck to itself like skin to leather car seats under an August sun, and under a thin red coat of marinara sauce, which she would have preferred thicker and more heavily salted. The chicken, though, she found perfectly cut, fresh-tasting and with just the right amount of cheese.

My roommate and I were spoiled by a special offer, taking place Monday through Wednesday nights, allowing two to dine for only $23.99 with a bottle of Merlot or Pinot Grigio or $11.99 without. We sadly had to opt for the latter, but were delighted at paying only $6 each for such enjoyable meals. Though the dessert menu of cheesecake, pastries and tiramisu was tempting to say the least, and not overpriced at about $6.95 per item, we decided that we wouldn’t feel good about ourselves paying more for dessert than for dinner and decided to pass altogether. We are college students, after all. If I had had enough money, though, I might have been convinced to try one of the many other tempting meals on the menu before I even thought about dessert.

Without Sardella’s special offers, meals range between $10 and $20, and are completely worth their cost. The rustic ambience, at-home feel and lively food make the restaurant a top pick for summer nights.

Sardella’s Italian Restaurant, 30 Memorial Blvd. West, Newport, (401) 849-6312, www.sardellas.com. Open nightly for dinner starting at 4:30 on Sunday and 5:00 Monday-Saturday. Alcohol served. Street Parking.